After living in seven different countries,Β I've learned a few things that surprised me.Β
Prague was the hardest place to adjust to because of its cold temperatures and language.
Texas' Dry Sundays, Europe's showers, and Wales' KFC menu surprised me the most.
Moving abroad can be exhausting, but I've done it multiple times, leaving my native island of St. Lucia for college in the US about 15 years ago. Since then, I've lived in places like Wales, the Czech Republic, Spain, Italy, and Greece.Β
Traveling was daunting at first, especially coming from a country with a population of less than 200,000. But I loved immersing myself in new cultures, forming close friendships, and discovering new delicacies in every possible city.Β Β Β
I felt knowledgeable about my destinations from my education, books, and television, but you never truly know a country until you've lived like a local.
There's always a lot of paperwork involved in traveling, but Spain is a different level of bureaucracy if you plan on living there for more than six months.
First, you must secure the Empadronamiento or "padrΓ³n," which is a document necessary to register with the town hall in the region of Spain you live in. This document adds your name and address to your city's census and is also necessary for administrative tasks like applying for a Social Security number, residency, public healthcare, opening a bank account, and getting married.
The process needs to be repeated if you move to another city and your residency must be canceled before leaving the country. Though the process seems simple, spots are often unavailable, so booking an appointment to do so can be very difficult.
The food scene is vast and varied in Prague
As a tourist in the Czech Republic, there are certain meals that you must try: beef steak tartare, Kulajda, SvΓΔkovΓ‘, and kolache.
Prague's international food scene is impressive, with restaurants representative of multiple cultures and palates. I was even able to find the ingredients to cook a local St. Lucian meal that included chicken backs and ripe plantains.
The bars are also stocked with Italian prosecco and a selection of craft beers.Β
Italian food is actually as good as advertised
I had often been told that you haven't had real pizza or pasta until you go to Italy, and I can confirm that this is true.Β
The best pizza I had was at a small, family-run joint in Crocetta del Montello, a tiny commune about an hour outside of Venice. It was simple, with some well-seasoned sauce and cheese on a crispy crust, but tasted amazing.
The same can be said for the gelato, which is velvety with intense fruit flavor.
I have also always loved spaghetti Bolognese, but enjoying the savory sauce in its native Bologna was unmatched.Β
Some states participate in Dry Sundays
During the two years that I lived in Texas, I discovered Dry Sundays, during which liquor-store sales are prohibited on Sundays, Thanksgiving Day, Christmas Day, and New Year's Day.
If Christmas or New Year's Day falls on a Sunday, the liquor store is closed the following Monday.
The law itself can be a bit complex, as beer sales on Sundays are permitted from 10 a.m. to midnight, and wine sales are regulated within special hours.
There are also different stipulations in place if you're attending a fair, festival, concert, or sporting event.
Other states like Kansas, Mississippi, and Tennessee participate in some variation of Dry Sunday as well.
Showering can be an extreme sport in some places
Showers in Europe can be small, making it difficult to move around. The half-door, which doesn't extend all the way across the tub, can also result in a very wet and messy floor.
The shower nozzle can be handheld, and once you figure it out, showering will be a breeze. However, washing your hair can be difficult, so be prepared to lay some towels out on the floor.Β
Greece has a Caribbean vibe
As a native of one of the premier vacation and honeymoon spots in the world, if the water is cold or there are rocks in lieu of sand on the beach, I am not interested.
But as I drove along the coastline to Olympia, the blue sea and sunny sky were reminiscent of St. Lucia. Skafidia Beach made me feel at home and showed me that Greece is a fantastic option if you can't make it to the Caribbean.Β
Some parts of Spain take siestas very seriously
In Prague, my Valencian roommate retreated to her bedroom every day around two o'clock for siesta, the Spanish tradition of taking a nap shortly after lunch. Our professors at a Barcelona university also scheduled classes during the morning to observe the ritual.
In my L'Hospitalet de Llobregat neighborhood, well outside of Barcelona's city center, the practice was going strong. Stores closed every day from 2 p.m. to 5 p.m. and I even witnessed a shop owner ask a woman to leave so that he could close at two.
KFC and many other fast-food chains don't have the same menu around the world
Kentucky Fried Chicken struck gold when it opened in the Caribbean Islands, becoming the most popular fast-food restaurant across the region, beloved even by Barbados native Rihanna.
Besides the fried chicken, one of the most popular sides is the golden buttermilk biscuit. Or at least that's what I thought until I wandered into a KFC in Wales only to discover that they didn't have it. After some confusion from workers who thought I was trying to order a cookie, they offered me rice, which I never knew was an option.
Major food chains like McDonald's, Wendy's, and KFC offer location-specific menus to appeal to target audiences worldwide. This can range from a Samurai Burger in Asia to a Chee-Zee Marmite Stuffed Pizza Crust in New Zealand.Β
People are friendlier than you might expect across the globe
Friendly faces are always a welcome sight and in Spain, Greece, and Italy, I found the locals to be patient and helpful even if I wasn't fluent in the language.
In the US, I met some of the warmest people when I lived in Detroit, Louisiana, and Texas.
In the UK, I initially thought people were a bit more reserved. However, when I had a problem with my visa, an amazing family in Wales helped me through it.
Though I thought Czechs, had a tough exterior, they also have a wonderful, dry sense of humor.
I learned to travel with an open mind and ignore the stereotypes β otherwise, you might miss out on connecting with some incredible people.Β
Prague was the most difficult place to adjust to
With its Romanesque architecture, steep hills, and small rivers, Prague is one of the most gorgeous cities in Central Europe.
However, Prague is also a cold city, so I bundled up in layers β coming from the tropical Caribbean, this was a tough adjustment.
The Czech language was also difficult to learn, and unlike in Spain, where English was very prevalent in the city center, Czech was spoken virtually everywhere. Because Czech falls in the West Slavic language group, it didn't have the familiar structures shared by French, Spanish, and Italian, which made it hard for me to retain.
The Czech Republic is very dog-friendly
I was pleasantly surprised when I saw Prague's pet owners proudly walking with their dogs and on the trams instead of strays roaming the streets.
The pets were also incredibly obedient and well-behaved at restaurants and on public transportation. This is the antithesis of St. Lucia's cultural norms, in which pets are not typically allowed in restaurants or public buses.Β Β
This story was originally published on February 1, 2022, and most recently updated on January 8, 2025.
American Kathleen O'Donnell said she felt at home the first time she visited Greece.
She moved away from the US in 2019 before settling full-time in Greece in 2022.
She likes Greece's food quality but doesn't like how car-centric the country can be.
Kathleen O'Donnell, 39, doesn't think she will ever move back to the US.
O'Donnell said she felt right at home when she visited Greece during an almost yearlong trip to Europe, Southeast Asia, and Australia in 2018 and 2019. After moving away from the US later on in 2019, she decided to be in Greece as much as she possibly could. She's been living in the country full time since applying for a digital nomad residence permit in May 2022.
"The longer that I live here, the happier I am, the more I love it, the more that I feel at home, and the more that I feel really sure that I found the perfect place for me to live right now," O'Donnell said.
She still loves visiting the US. Even though she's unsure if she will live in Greece for the rest of her life, she said it's unlikely she'll return permanently to the States.
"I just don't think that it has the quality of life that I could find in most other places these days," O'Donnell, who has been to around 30 countries, said. "The lack of sense of community is really what gets me. It's a very isolated society."
O'Donnell said she thinks it's an exciting time for people interested in moving to a different country because many places, like Brazil, Italy, and Thailand, offer digital nomad visas.
What O'Donnell likes and dislikes about Greece
O'Donnell said she likes the quality and affordability of food in Greece, including the produce at her local farmers market. She said the market can be noisy, but she enjoys getting the chance to become familiar with the people there.
"That sense of community is another pro," O'Donnell said. "Even in Athens, which is a very large city, it feels like a series of small villages. You really get to know people around you."
She said she had become friends with many of her neighbors since moving to her apartment earlier this year.
O'Donnell also thinks it's easy to travel elsewhere, given Athens International Airport, and enjoys the country's weather.
Meanwhile, she finds getting a residence permit takes a long time. She said it took around half a year for a two-year permit to be approved and another month to get it.
"The date of that permit starts when you apply, not when you get it," she said, adding. "and you can't go anywhere but your home country in that time and you can't even travel through most of Europe."
She's waiting for her renewal, which she thinks could take at least a year. "In the meantime, you're just very restricted about what you can do, and that's pretty frustrating," she said.
O'Donnell also plans to buy an apartment and has found that this is taking a while.
"It's just a simple one-bedroom apartment, and it will probably take a full two years to complete this very typical purchase, which is just wild," she said. "I've been trying to buy a place since December 2021."
She also thinks that while Athens is vibrant and lively, it's car-centric, and the sidewalks could be improved. She thinks getting around is tough because she doesn't have a vehicle and likes walking.
Despite the cons, she said she still loves Athens and Greece overall.
"I am so happy here," she said. "I just have such a great quality of life. It's very different from the US."
What has your moving or travel experience been like? Share with this reporter at [email protected].
According to family lore, my pappou actually helped invent frozen phyllo. Why I'm not a frozen phyllo heiress partying with Paris Hilton on a yacht in Mykonos, I do not know, but I'm still proud!
Our family makes my pappou's baklava every Christmas, so I asked my dad to finally share its history and recipe with the world.
Here's how to make it.
My pappou had a flyer he gave his bakery's customers with a hilariously short baklava recipe.
My dad told me that my pappou started giving people the flyers β which also included recipes for Greek treats like trigona and galaktoboureko β because they were constantly asking how he made them.
His baklava recipe is less than 70 words and basically translates to: "We add breadcrumbs and a bit of sugar in the mix. We lay the phyllo in layers of two. We add the mix in multiple layers, not just the middle."
My dad started selling baklava at the bakery when he was 12 years old.
During the holiday season, my dad would always help my pappou at the store. But he didn't start making the dessert himself until he moved to the US, wanting to continue the tradition while more than 6,000 miles away from his entire family.
Like my dad, every Christmas memory I have includes baklava. It doesn't feel like the holidays without it. And since my dad taught me how to make his famous pastitio and avgolomeno soup, it was only natural that baklava would be next on the list.
And, lucky for you, he was more than happy to share the family recipe β and prove that baklava is a lot easier to make than it looks.
My dad's baklava only requires a few ingredients, and you probably already have most of them in your kitchen.
To make my dad's baklava, you'll need:
1 packet of phyllo dough
2 sticks of unsalted butter
2 cups of chopped walnuts
2 cups and 2 tablespoons of sugar
Β½ cup of plain breadcrumbs
1 tablespoon of cinnamon
My dad always begins by melting the butter in a saucepan over low heat.
"As Paul Hollywood would say, you need good lamination," my dad told me sagely as he watched to ensure the butter didn't burn.
He also throws his walnuts into a food processor β but just for a few seconds.
"You don't want them to be a powder," he told me.
No food processor? No problem. My dad said it's also perfectly fine to roughly chop your walnuts with a knife or buy pre-chopped walnuts from the supermarket.
Then, it's time to prepare the baklava mixture.
We added the walnuts to a large bowl with 2 tablespoons of sugar, as well as the cinnamon and breadcrumbs.
My dad told me that breadcrumbs help the baklava absorb the syrup better, a helpful trick that was actually discovered by accident.
"Walnuts in Greece used to be very expensive, and people would cheat with breadcrumbs," he said. "But they found that the breadcrumbs actually really help with absorption."
Just make sure the breadcrumbs are plain β no Italian seasoning!
Then, give the bowl a quick mix.
As the scents of cinnamon and walnuts twisted together, I felt like I could already smell the baklava.
It brought me back to being a kid, where I'd walk by the kitchen every Christmas break and watch my dad dutifully prepare this mix.
Before you can begin building the baklava, you need to prep your phyllo.
No one expects you to make your own phyllo β this isn't "The Great British Bake-Off." But make sure to leave your phyllo in the fridge for a day or two before you make the baklava. It can't be used frozen.
It's also important to cut the sheets before building the baklava.
My dad's pro tip is to take your pan (he recommends using one that's medium-sized and has a rectangular shape) and place it over the sheets. Then, using a sharp knife, cut the phyllo to almost match the size of the pan.
"It's OK to fold a little phyllo on the side, so give yourself some extra dough," my dad said. "But you don't want a huge amount."
And don't throw anything away. Those extra phyllo strips are going to come in handy later.
Make sure you save some of your best sheets for the bottom of the baklava (you need a strong base) and the top (so it looks extra impressive).
It's time to build those layers! My dad always begins by brushing some butter on the bottom of his pan.
You don't need much; just a thin layer will do.
Then, start by placing two layers of phyllo in the pan.
As you build the baklava, you always add two phyllo sheets at a time and brush the second layer with a little butter.
"Not too much," my dad said. "It doesn't have to be soaked, or else the baklava will be very oily."
After six total layers of phyllo, throw in some walnut mix after adding the butter.
"Sprinkle the whole pan with a thin layer of your mix," my dad said. "And put a bit more of the mix around the middle of your phyllo."
"But you don't want areas where there's no filling," he added. "You want some in every bite."
You'll continue repeating those three simple steps as you build more and more layers of the baklava.
Remember, the breakdown is:
Two layers of phyllo at a time, the top brushed with butter
Every six layers of phyllo, add some of the walnut mixture
When you reach the middle of your pan, start using the extra phyllo strips.
Place the strips next to each other, as we did above, to mimic a full sheet and get the most out of your box of phyllo. Just make sure you're still doing two layers at a time.
"It's not an arts and crafts project; it's food!" my dad said. "You're not going to see any of this when you cut the baklava, just multiple layers of phyllo."
The middle is also where you'll want to put a bit more of the walnut mixture.
And if you end up missing the count and accidentally put three layers of phyllo instead of two or the walnuts on top of layer seven instead of six, my dad said it's "not the end of the world."
"The key is you just want to make laminated layers with the filling," he added. "Don't panic, and do the best you can."
The last two layers should be your best layers.
For this pan of baklava, we actually did four final layers instead of six since we ran out of phyllo.
If you want, you can always make more mix. And if you have extra phyllo, you can use it to make tiropitakia (cheese pies) or spanakopita (spinach pies) and really turn this into a Greek feast.
Make sure to cover your entire last layer with butter.
This is why you want to use full sheets of phyllo on top β it's very hard to butter broken layers.
And don't forget to butter the edges. My dad says this will help protect the phyllo from burning.
Before throwing your pan in the oven, you need to cut the baklava.
Before baking, use a sharp knife to cut the baklava into small triangles or squares.
"If you don't cut it, the baklava will not cook," my dad told me. "Raw baklava is not good. Plus, it's very hard to cut after you cook it because the baklava is very flaky."
My dad recommends using the diagonal cut.
It helps the cooking process, and it's the traditional shape. First, cut the baklava into squares, then slice them diagonally.
You'll want to bake the baklava at 350 degrees Fahrenheit until golden brown.
My dad said the baking time will take 45 to 55 minutes. Every oven is different, so check on yours until you get that beautiful color.
Now, it's time to make the syrup.
To begin the syrup, mix the 2 cups of sugar with 1 cup of water.
Then, add a bit of lemon juice to the mix.
My dad told me that lemon juice helps prevent the syrup from crystallizing, which makes the baklava last longer.
Then mix the syrup as you wait for the first boil.
"Wait a few seconds after it starts boiling, then take it off of the heat," my dad said. "Don't let it boil for more than a minute."
While the syrup is still hot, pour it all over your cold baklava.
My dad recommends using a ladle for this step and says it's important to pour the syrup evenly over the baklava.
It's also important to note that your baklava needs to cool completely before adding the syrup. My dad usually lets the baklava sit overnight, but he said you can just wait a couple of hours if you're in a crunch for time.
Then, cover your pan with aluminum foil and let it rest for 30 minutes.
This helps the baklava absorb all that delicious syrup.
The baklava is ready to serve once it's cold.
To make sure the syrup doesn't crystallize, my dad says it's important to always use a clean knife when you're cutting new pieces and always avoid using a wet knife or wet utensils.
Also, there's no need to refrigerate. You can let your pan sit out in the kitchen for days (if it's not eaten before then!).
And if your baklava tastes anything like my dad's, it will be absolutely delicious.
There are so many incredible textures and flavors that dance together as you bite into a piece of baklava. You've got the flakiness from the phyllo, combined with that sweet, sticky syrup. And then there's that satisfying crunch of the walnuts in the middle, bringing everything together as it melts in your mouth.
I brought some of my dad's baklava on a road trip with friends years ago, and they still talk about it to this day. My boyfriend and his roommates said it was so good it gave them goosebumps.
This recipe has won my dad baking contests at his office and has been the talk of every Greek holiday party we've ever attended.
I'm telling you, this is the real deal.
This baklava may be my family's recipe, but I know it'll bring you joy for years to come.
The most special thing about food to me has always been the stories it can bring. My pappou passed when I was 4 years old, but I've been able to keep a connection with his spirit through the baklava that my dad has made every Christmas. And now that I can make it as well, it's a tradition I know I'll always honor.
While I know it can seem intimidating, my dad's recipe proves that you don't have to be a Greek phyllo maker (or the descendant of one) to make some amazing baklava for your family and friends.
So, whether you only make this baklava once or it earns a permanent spot on your family's holiday menu, I hope you feel the love in this recipe.
In September, Katka Lapelosova took a solo trip to Greece.
While she enjoyed the six days in Zakynthos, it wasn't the stress-free vacation she'd hoped for.
If she could do it over, she'd travel there with friends and rent a car.
Now that I live in Europe, I love how easy it is to visit different countries. Since leaving New York City in 2020, I aim to travel at least once a month.
In September, I decided it was time for a solo trip to a Greek island to live out my "Mamma Mia" dreams. My friends recommended Santorini and Mykonos, but those islands were expensive, and I was nervous about them being overcrowded.
I researched a few alternatives, like Corfu, Zakynthos, and Rhodes, and settled on Zakynthos, partly due to photos of a shipwreck I'd seen on Instagram.
I wanted to see if the water was really the color of Colgate toothpaste, but more than that, I just needed a seaside break to relax and help me reset. My beach vacation in Greece was very much what I needed, but there are some things I would change if I had the chance for a vacation redo.
1. Spend time in Athens
I had an overnight layover in Athens, so I spent one night in the city center before heading to Zakynthos. Friends had told me I only needed a day in the city, saying that there wasn't much to see or do. The city took me by surprise, though, and I wish I'd had more time there.
Outside the incredible historic Greek archaeology, I didn't have enough time for the art museums or festivals. While the residential architecture wasn't as charming as what I saw on the island, the mix of classical designs, modern restaurants, and cocktail bars all looked worthy of a visit.
2. Avoid the party zones
Once I got to Zakynthos, the energy level changed. I was greeted by the chaos of gap year travelers living out the last days of summer. I had read that the island was a hot spot for college-aged travelers, but I figured it was big enough that we could keep our distance. But despite my accommodation being just outside the main party zone of Laganas, I shared a floor with a group of eight rowdy college kids. I was thankful that I'd packed earplugs.
In hindsight, I should have done more research on other parts of the island. While some locals told me Zakynthos has parties wherever you go, others said that renting a villa can be a good alternative for finding a bit of peace and quiet. They said that visitors who stay more inland can rent a car and drive to the beach, as most coastlines can be reached in a few minutes.
3. Rent a car to explore more of the island
Renting a car would have been a great idea overall, but my plan had been to take buses. In true island fashion, these ran on their own schedule
One day in Zakynthos, I waited over an hour for a bus that never came. Taxis proved to be just as unreliable, with many canceling or not showing up when I tried to book them by phone.
While I was able to make the most of Laganas, the island's village and beach resort, I feel like there was more I could have explored. I was limited to the nearby beaches, which were not super crowded but not very serene or peaceful either.
I also didn't realize that it was much easier to get to the shipwreck by car. Only one tour company offered to drive people there, so I had to work around their schedule to see it.
4. Travel with friends instead of going solo
Normally, I opt for solo travel. I find it to be the least stressful. But I often felt lonely on Zakynthos because I saw big groups of people everywhere I went β not just college kids either, but multi-generational families and honeymooning couples, all having fun in the sun around me.
I watched a lot of them enjoying the outdoor and water activities that Greece has to offer. Small boats can be rented to sail around the island, take tours of water caves and go diving or snorkeling, grab a few mopeds or four-wheelers and drive around, party on a booze cruise, or enjoy inflatable water playgrounds along the beach.
While I could have done some of those things on my own, I knew they'd be more fun with a big group of friends to share the excitement.
5. Understand the difference between beachfront and beach access
One of the biggest things I'd change about my Greek island trip is booking a hotel that had beach access. "Beachfront" doesn't necessarily mean you can just walk right out to the beach from your hotel, or at least not on Zakynthos.
While my accommodation was next to the beach, if I wanted to spend time lounging in the sun, I had to pay for a crummy cappuccino or an overpriced bottle of water for the privilege.
Next time, I'll read more reviews or even contact the property and ask if they have a beach for their guests. I only saw "beachfront" on my booking website and realized after spending a few days there that what I needed was "beach access" or "private beach."