• I traveled from Denver to Salt Lake City on an overnight Amtrak train in January.
• I booked a $400 roomette accommodation for the 15-hour train journey.
• I made a few mistakes along the way, from not knowing dining etiquette to skipping a rest stop.

I took an overnight Amtrak train from Denver to Salt Lake City in January. I spent the 15-hour journey in a private 23-square-foot space with two seats and two beds — otherwise known as a roomette.

I was no stranger to the environment. I had previously taken two other overnight rides on Amtrak trains. So I thought I'd get through the experience well prepared and with no regrets.

But I'm still learning from my travel mistakes. Here are four slip-ups from my most recent trip that I won't forget on future rides.

I should have called to request a room on the train's top floor.

I traveled from Denver to Salt Lake City on Amtrak's California Zephyr — a double-decker train. My previous Amtrak rides had single-story cars, so I was excited to step on board and hoped my room would be on the top floor.

It wasn't.

And although the views of Rocky Mountain National Park were spectacular from my room, I could see further out from the dining car's windows on the second story, and I longed for a room with a higher vantage point.

Although Amtrak's booking platform didn't have an option to select a specific room, Amtrak spokesperson Marc Magliari told Business Insider that you can call the contact center, speak to a live agent, and request a particular room if it's still available.

He added that family and accessible bedrooms are on the lower level, regular bedrooms are on the top level, and roomettes are on both levels.

I should have brought snacks for in-between meals.

My Amtrak ticket included three meals. An attendant came by my room to reserve a seat in the dining car for each. I had breakfast just after we departed at about 9 a.m. I chose the noon lunch slot and the 5 p.m. dinner slot.

I didn't get hungry between breakfast and lunch, but around 3 p.m., my stomach started growling. In hindsight, I should have packed snacks for the ride.

The train had a café car with snacks, beverages, and microwavable meals for sale, but I decided to save my money and fuel up at dinner.

I didn't realize I was supposed to wait for meal call before entering the dining car.

Hungry and eager, I entered the dining car a minute before 5 p.m. The empty tables were set with mini flower arrangements that looked charming against the rolling canyon backdrop out the windows.

At the other end of the car, I spotted a handful of employees looking at me and talking among themselves.

"I'm here for my dinner reservation," I said.

One replied that I was supposed to wait for an attendant to announce dinner over the intercom. Embarassed, I apologized and started to turn back. They told me to stay and sit at the first table while another employee went to the intercom.

I'd had nearly a dozen meals in Amtrak dining cars before, but this was the first time I'd made this mistake.

I should have taken advantage of every rest stop.

Some stops on overnight Amtrak trains are long enough for passengers to get out and walk around the platform for a few minutes.

I typically take this opportunity to get fresh air and stretch my legs, whether sunny or snowing outside. But when this train made its final long stop roughly 15 minutes before dinner, I was entranced in a book and decided to stay in.

After dinner, I regretted not getting off at that final extended stop when I craved space to stretch out and move my body.

When I arrived in Salt Lake City around midnight, I was grateful for fresh air and open space.

• I took a 15-hour train ride from Denver to Salt Lake City on an Amtrak Superliner.
• For $400, I booked a 23-square-foot roomette accommodation, and my ticket included meals.
• Seven unique aspects of the trip made it a surprising and worthwhile experience.

I've spent 140 hours on overnight trains, and my most recent trip still managed to surprise me.

In January, I took a 15-hour Amtrak Superliner train from Denver to Salt Lake City. For $400, I stayed in a roomette, a 23-square-foot private room with two chairs and two bunks.

It was my third time traveling on an Amtrak sleeper train, so I wasn't expecting to be surprised. But seven aspects of my trip were unique to my other long-haul train experiences — and made the ride worth the cost.

I had never been on a double-decker overnight train before.

Every overnight train I'd been on previously, from the US to Europe, had one-story cars. So I was surprised to learn I'd be taking a double-decker train on my latest overnight trip.

My past Amtrak trips were on Viewliner trains, the one-story sleeper fleet that runs in the East and the South, but this trip was on the two-story Superliner fleet that travels on routes west of Chicago and New Orleans.

Although my roomette was on the first level, I wandered the top floor to see the railside views from a higher angle. I also appreciated that the dining car was on the top deck, so I had exceptional views during meal time.

The observation car wowed me.

The restaurant wasn't the only communal car upstairs — another was built purely for sightseeing, filled with booths and chairs facing two rows of windows.

I headed to the observation car just before noon, three hours into my trip. We were passing through Rocky Mountain National Park as the snow stopped and the sun brightened the landscape. I was mesmerized by the epic natural scene as I spotted highland cows — one of my favorite animals that I'd never seen in real life before.

In my room, I wasn't expecting my seat to be so much more comfortable than previous overnight Amtrak rides.

I'd booked an Amtrak roomette before, so I knew what to expect when I entered the 23-square-foot space — two seats facing each other that formed a lower bunk by night, a pullout table between them, and another bunk that pulled down from above.

It had been nearly four years since my last overnight Amtrak ride, and as soon as I sat down, I could tell the seats were newer and far more comfortable.

An Amtrak spokesman, Marc Magliari, told Business Insider that the entire Superliner fleet was getting an interior refresh, and 76% of them — including my ride — had already been updated.

"The seats have the same frame, but the cushions are new, and there's more lumbar support in this current seat cushion design than the old seat cushion design," Magliari said. "If you see gray, vinyl seating, then you know that you are in a fresh room."

The vinyl felt much smoother on my skin than the pilled, blue fabric seats in my previous Amtrak accommodations. The upgraded seat cushions weren't stiff like the old ones either.

I thought the seats alone made the new Amtrak roomette cozier for a long ride.

I was shocked that the bunk felt like a real bed.

Most train bunks feel like stiff cots, in my experience, but thanks to the new seat cushions, my lower bunk felt more like a mattress.

I snuggled up with a plush blanket and thick, fluffy pillows provided by Amtrak.

My ticket included meals, and I was astonished by how good the food was.

To me, train food beats airplane food any day. But unless you're on a luxury overnight train, I've still found food on the rails mediocre at best. So I was surprised when all three included meals were as good as many budget restaurants I enjoy.

Sweet and juicy strawberries topped my French toast for breakfast. The grilled chicken on my Caesar salad made for a flavorful lunch, and my three-course dinner featured premium ingredients like Brie salad and flat iron steak.

I was impressed by how much more satisfying these dishes were than the meals on my previous overnight Amtrak rides.

I was surprised that there was no WiFi on board, and even more surprised that I didn't care.

Less than two hours into the trip, I realized the train didn't have WiFi. This surprised me since my previous overnight Amtrak trips have included it. Normally, I'd be annoyed to learn I didn't have this amenity on a long journey, but I didn't mind this time.

I could check my phone with data during stops and while passing through cities and towns. And on the train, my book, my Nintendo Switch, and the views out the window were enough to keep me content for the 15-hour ride.

I knew I'd have great views, but I didn't consider how the landscape would transform.

The Western US is rich with awe-inspiring natural landscapes, so I was stoked for the views on my journey. But I didn't think about the contrasting landscapes between Colorado and Utah. Watching the snowy mountain forests gradually transition into desert canyons was amazing.

I gazed out the window as frozen rivers melted, dry shrubs replaced tall green trees, and forest-topped mountains turned to bare red canyons.

It was remarkable, and it's the ultimate reason I choose to travel by overnight train again and again — long journeys on the rails give you a passing look at the country from a vantage point you won't find anywhere else.

• For my first overnight Amtrak ride in 2021, I booked a roomette on a Viewliner train.
• Then, in 2025, I booked a roomette on a newly upgraded Superliner train.
• The rooms had similar layouts, but modern upgrades made the second ride much cozier.

I'll never forget my first overnight train trip in October 2021.

I took an Amtrak Viewliner train from my home in New York City to Miami and spent the 30-hour ride in a roomette — a 20-square-foot private cabin — for $500.

After spending the next three years sampling sleeper trains in Europe, I took another long-haul Amtrak journey from Denver to Salt Lake City in January. This ride was on a Superliner train, and it was only 15 hours.

I booked the same accommodation — a roomette for $400 — which had the same basic layout with a couple of differences.

Overall, the second roomette had modern updates, making my train ride more comfortable.

Amtrak sleeper trains from east to west

Amtrak's Viewliner fleet takes overnight riders through the eastern and southern US, and the train line's Superliner fleet carries passengers west of Chicago and New Orleans.

The main difference between the two fleets is size. The Viewliner is a one-story train, while the Superliner is two stories and includes an additional communal car on the top floor for sightseeing.

Amtrak is updating the roughly 30-to-50-year-old Superliner cars, and about 76% of the fleet has already been refreshed, including the train I took, Amtrak spokesman Marc Magliari told Business Insider.

The Viewliners are a bit newer than the Superliner cars — the first Viewliner train was delivered in the late '90s, according to Magliari. Still, he said many of the one-story trains would also get an interior update in 2026.

Viewliner vs. Superliner roomettes

Before we get into the upgrades, there is a notable difference between the roomettes on these two trains.

Both roomettes sleep up to two people, with two chairs forming a lower bunk and another pulling down from the ceiling. They both also have mirrors, small closets, and pullout tables.

Some Viewliner roomettes also squeeze in a toilet, and they all include a sink, so travelers don't have to use the shared bathrooms in the car.

The Superliner roomettes don't have plumbing, so guests must use the shared bathrooms.

Fresh seat cushions

The most important upgrade to me was the seats.

When I stepped inside the Superliner roomette, I immediately noticed the seats looked like they'd never been used.

I'm sure that's not true, but I didn't find one sign of wear or crust of dirt on either seat. Sitting in one for the first time felt like sampling a recliner at a furniture store.

Magliari told BI that the old blue cloth seats had been replaced with soft vinyl.

"The seats have the same frame, but the cushions are new. And there's more lumbar support in this current seat cushion design than the old seat cushion design," he said. "If you see gray, vinyl seating, then you know that you are in a fresh room."

A comfy seat makes a cozy bed

My upper bunk on the Viewliner felt like a cot, and my lower bunk on the Superliner felt more like a mattress.

I selected the upper bunk in the Viewliner roomette because I'd never been on an overnight train before, and sleeping up top felt more adventurous.

It kind of was — but not in a good way. The suspended bunk shook throughout the night from the turbulence of the train. I couldn't find a comfortable position on the stiff mattress and tossed and turned through the night.

I haven't slept on a train's top bunk since, but being on the ground wasn't the only thing that made the Superliner bunk feel more like a bed. The reclined seat cushions had a bit more give to them, and the soft vinyl felt smoother on my skin.

Seeing the difference in comfort after four years got me stoked about the future of overnight Amtrak travel.

In the future, you'll catch me on an upgraded Viewliner.

• I spent 15 hours on an overnight Amtrak train traveling from Denver to Salt Lake City.
• I've taken many overnight train trips, and this one provided one of the best experiences I've had.
• I was surprised to spend 15 hours in the same place in many different ways.

Sleeper trains can be many things — comfortable, cramped, bumpy, awe-inspiring, isolating, social, luxurious, and unbearable.

Over the past four years, I've spent 140 hours traveling 3,950 miles on overnight trains in the US and Europe, and I've fallen in love with it.

Overnight trains are my favorite way to travel because, unlike most things in my life, they force me to be still and enjoy the view. And even the most insufferable nights on the rails have helped me grow, get more comfortable on sleeper trains, and appreciate the good rides.

My most recent ride was one of the best.

On a frosty day in January, I boarded an overnight train in Denver for a 15-hour ride to Salt Lake City. The train was cozy and social, and the views were striking and diverse.

Ride along with me.

A double-decker sleeper train

The California Zephyr runs from Chicago to San Francisco on Amtrak's Superliner fleet, which comprises two-story coach and first-class sleeper cars, as well as a dining car and an observation car.

I booked the lowest-tier accommodation in the sleeper car, a roomette, for $400.

From Denver to Salt Lake City in a private sleeper cabin

The 23-square-foot space, enclosed by a sliding door, had two seats that folded out into a bed and another bunk up top. There was also a foldout table between the seats, a shelf, a mirror, and a thin closet.

I also had access to four shared bathrooms and a shower in the sleeper car, and my ticket included meals.

Hour 1: Boarding and breakfast

On a snowy January morning, I arrived at Denver's Union Station at 8:30 a.m. for an 8:45 a.m. departure. I headed straight to the train, which was already waiting for me.

There were two boarding lines on the platform — coach and first-class, which refers to sleeper accommodations.

The coach line had about 10 people, but I whizzed through the empty first-class line and found my car easily, thanks to the big signage.

I stepped on board and found my cabin on the first floor. There wasn't much space to stand, but I easily stretched out by reclining both comfy seats and using one of them as a leg rest. The recently upgraded vinyl seats were cushy and more comfortable than any train seats I've booked in the US.

My first-class attendant came by to introduce herself and let me know I could call her at any time with a button from my seat. She also took my lunch reservation (noon) and told me that breakfast in the dining car on the second floor ended at 9 a.m., so I needed to hurry.

The train took off at 8:45, just as I sat down for breakfast. A couple and I were the only remaining passengers to feed. As is typical on an Amtrak train, we were seated together.

I ordered French toast with sausage, topped with syrup, powdered sugar, strawberries, and whipped cream. It was pretty decent for a train meal, and I noticed the strawberries tasted fresh.

While waiting for my meal, I chatted with the couple headed to California after visiting their kids in Denver — a 36-hour ride on their first overnight train.

Hour 2: No WiFi, no worries

By 10 a.m., I realized that this train route didn't have WiFi, and I had no signal. But none of that mattered to me once I looked out the window.

The views heading west from Denver reminded me of the Swiss Alps. We went through several small tunnels that opened up to mountainous forests blanketed in snow.

Around this time, the attendant asked if I wanted to make a reservation for the observation car, a communal space on the second floor with two rows of windows bleeding into the ceiling for optimal views.

The observation car doesn't typically require reservations, but it gets crowded when the train passes through Rocky Mountain National Park in the early afternoons. Later, in the observation car, an attendant said managing the crowds with 30-minute time slots was easier. I took the 11:30 a.m. slot.

Hour 3: Fresh air

We stopped for the first time since I boarded at around 10:50 a.m. in Fraser, Colorado. The train didn't stop long enough to step outside very often, so I took the opportunity to get some fresh air.

It was easy to spot who was continuing on the journey and who wasn't based on their baggage and attire. Some passengers came out in the snow in sweatshirts and shorts, while others were bundled up with suitcases in hand.

It was sunny and crisp on the snow-covered platform. I stretched my legs and spotted others posing for pictures and checking their phones.

After about five minutes, a whistle blew, signaling everyone to board.

Hour 4: Epic views before lunch

At 11:30 a.m., I headed upstairs to the observation car. It was much brighter than the other cars, especially since it was sunny. It was also packed to the brim. I was seated next to a quiet couple, with whom I spotted highland cows in a valley surrounded by forests.

The dining car was right next to the observation car. I strolled in at noon and was seated with a high-school student visiting her sister at college and a California-bound, older couple who had taken overnight trains before.

We discussed our travels as I dined on a Caesar salad with grilled chicken. It was on par with good, budget-friendly restaurants I'd been to before, and it ended up being my favorite dish of the trip.

Hour 5: Kicking back in the cabin

After a fulfilling lunch and conversation, I returned to my cabin for some downtime. The dramatic views continued as I read a book in my cozy chair.

Hour 6: Time to stretch

Just before 2:30 p.m., the train stopped for another break in Glenwood Springs, Colorado, for about 15 minutes.

I had time to walk the length of the train. It was a bit warmer outside, so I stepped onto the platform without my jacket.

Hour 7: A change of scenery

By 3 p.m., the views started to transform. The snow melted as we passed rivers and streams, and the trees were smaller and more sparse in southwestern Colorado.

My attendant came by during this time to ask when I wanted to have dinner. Since I was already getting hungry, I opted for the earliest slot: 5 p.m.

Hour 8: Grateful for curtains and skincare

Around 4 p.m., the sun started hitting my window in various locations along the length of the room. That's when I noticed how much the curtains came in handy.

Blocking the sun wasn't limited like in a car with a visor. I could slide the two curtains back and forth, scrunch them up, and spread them out for optimal glare blockage.

Before dinner, I went to the bathroom to wash my face and noticed it had been cleaned since my last visit. Then, I returned to my cabin to moisturize using the mirror. The crisp, Southwestern air made my skin drier than usual.

Hour 9: Dinner with a view

I strolled into the dining car at 4:59 p.m. It was empty except for employees who appeared confused about my arrival.

"I'm here for my dinner reservation," I said.

"You're supposed to wait for the announcement," one of them called out. Oops.

Seconds later, one employee welcomed guests to the dining car over the intercom, and another told me to sit at the first table.

After a talkative breakfast and lunch, I wasn't feeling too social. Luckily, the trio of young women I shared the booth with seemed to have the same idea. We said hello to each other and then dined quietly. All of us took pictures of our meals when they arrived.

The dinner was three courses. I had a Brie salad followed by a flat iron steak with mashed potatoes, steamed veggies, and a wine sauce. I was surprised by how flavorful the steak was; it was cooked perfectly for me.

The dessert was a decent white chocolate blueberry cobbler cheesecake. It was no New York cheesecake, but it was tasty, and I ate nearly all of it.

Hour 10: Providing my own turndown service

As soon as I finished dinner, I reclined the seats in my cabin to form the lower bunk. An hour later, the attendant announced they could provide turndown service. But I'm no stranger to converting train bunks. And since I'd be getting off the train just before midnight, I wanted to get a few hours of rest beforehand.

The bunk was more spacious than most I've experienced on trains. And the cushions were surprisingly easy on my back.

The blanket provided was extremely soft — one side felt like velvet. The pillows were more dense and fluffy than most overnight train cabins I've experienced. I only needed to rest one under my head, as I do at home.

Hour 11: TV in a cozy bed — just like home

Watching TV before bed brings me comfort.

Earlier in the trip, when I had service, I downloaded a few episodes of "Curb Your Enthusiasm" for this very reason.

I stretched out on the cot, put my headphones in, and soaked up the comedy as we rode through the night.

Hours 12-14: Night naps

The last intercom announcement at 9:45 p.m. informed passengers that 10 a.m. to 7 p.m. are quiet train hours.

After a few TV episodes, I put the screen down and drifted in and out of sleep for the final hours of my trip.

Hour 15: A midnight arrival

We arrived in Salt Lake City just before midnight. An attendant knocked on my door about 10 minutes before to let me know we were close. I was already up and started to gather my things.

I exited the train at the back of a long platform, which was brightly lit despite the late hour. I watched other departing passengers greet their loved ones at the station as I called an Uber to take me to my next adventure.

• I spent 15 hours in a sleeper car on an Amtrak Superliner train going from Denver to Salt Lake City.
• For $400, I stayed in a private cabin, which had two seats during the day and two bunks at night.
• The 23-square-foot space was cozy and full of space-saving hacks that made it feel larger.

Taking a sleeper train from Denver to Salt Lake City was more expensive than flying or driving — and it took a lot longer. But for a locomotive enthusiast like me, it was worth it.

In January, I took a 15-hour ride through the American Southwest on Amtrak's California Zephyr, an overnight train. I paid $400 to stay in a private, enclosed 23-square-foot space with two chairs and two bunks — also known as a roomette.

I found that 23 square feet is plenty of space for me to feel comfortable on a long journey. And with an efficient arrangement and a design that seemed to prioritize relaxation, I was far cozier than I am on flights and road trips.

On a cold morning in early January, I boarded the California Zephyr at Denver's Union Station.

Amtrak's Superliner is a two-story train fleet that runs on routes west of Chicago and New Orleans, including the California Zephyr. The cars are roughly 30 to 50 years old, and Amtrak plans to replace this fleet and others in the 2030s, Amtrak spokesman Marc Magliari told Business Insider.

For now, the train line is investing $28 million into interior renovations on long-distance trains, including new carpets, LED lighting, and a seating makeover in coach, communal, and sleeper cars.

Roughly 76% of the Superliner sleeper cars have been updated, and the rest are scheduled to be completed in 2025.

I was lucky enough to ride in a newly refreshed Superliner.

My ticket included lounge access, priority boarding, and three meals on board.

A roomette accommodation is a step above coach seating and a step below a bedroom, which is twice as large and includes a full private bathroom. Two steps above, a bedroom suite joins two bedrooms, providing four beds and two bathrooms with showers.

The train also has family bedrooms, which sleep two adults and two kids, and accessible bedrooms with two bunks.

My ticket also included access to a first-class attendant who took meal reservations, offered turndown service, and fielded questions and requests.

My roomette was on the first floor of the double-decker train.

I skipped the coach passenger line to board, stepped onto the train, and placed my luggage in a shared storage space where each passenger was allowed two suitcases.

Then, I walked down a short hallway to my room, which had a sliding door that locked from the inside.

Inside, I found two cushy recliners facing each other beside a wide window.

The roomette sleeps up to two people. During the day, the room was set up with two seats, which reclined to form the lower bunk. The upper bunk could be pulled down to reveal the cot.

Next to one of the chairs, there was a shelf below a tall mirror. There were multiple hooks around the room that I used for jackets and accessories.

I could tell the seats were new. They were wide and cushy with no signs of wear. But just to make sure, I asked Magliari how a passenger could tell if they were in an updated sleeper car.

"Doing away with the blue fabric is the biggest giveaway," he said. "If you see gray, vinyl seating, then you know that you are in a fresh room."

Magliari added that the new seat cushions and upholstery provide more lumbar support than the older models.

The sides of each headrest contained room controls.

There were lighting, speaker volume, and temperature controls, as well as one outlet and a call button for the attendant.

Between the chairs, a pullout table had two foldout leaves for extra space.

There were cupholders on either side of the table — each holding a complimentary water bottle. However, the holders were too shallow to contain the bottles when the train shook, causing them to fall over during turbulent stretches.

"The cupholder size is a challenge we've faced. Beverage shapes and sizes change over time," Magliari told BI, alluding to the rise of brands expanding circumference like Stanley and Yeti.

A thin closet stood above a small trash can next to one seat.

Inside the closet, I found some hangers and fresh linens.

The sleeping car shared four bathrooms and a shower.

My booking didn't include a private bathroom. The shower and three of the bathrooms were on the first floor. I never had to wait in line to use the restroom, and I noticed they had been cleaned since my last visit a couple of times during the ride.

At night, I slid the chairs into bed mode.

After dinner in the dining car, I reclined both seats to be flat, forming the bottom bunk. The bed was wider and more comfortable than most train bunks I've slept on. The pillows were thick and fluffy, and the plush blanket had a luxurious feel.

The highlight of the 23-square-foot roomette was the expansive window.

A 23-square-foot room may seem small, but the wide, comfy seats, impressive space-saving hacks, and views outside the expansive window made it feel large.