Antarctic Ice Core Unlocks 1.2 Million Years of Unbroken Climate History, Setting New Record
The achievement represents the longest continuous record of Earthβs climate from an ice core.
My husband and I just marked a significant milestone by visiting our seventh continent together: Antarctica. During the past 20 years, our mutual love for exploration has taken us to every corner of the globe, but our recent journey to this vast, icy desert feels distinctly different.
Once a destination reserved for scientists and the most intrepid travelers, Antarctica has become more accessible in recent years thanks to expedition voyages offered by various companies. We embarked on an extraordinary 11-day adventure to Antarctica with National Geographic-Lindblad Expeditions.
Here's what it's like to visit Antarctica and why we're glad we saved the "frozen" continent for last.
The flight itinerary included a 24-hour, two-connection route from the US to Ushuaia, Argentina, the southernmost city in the world. We spent one night at Arakur Ushuaia Resort & Spa, which has fantastic views of the town and the Beagle Channel.
The following morning, we ventured briefly to Tierra del Fuego National Park. In the early evening, we boarded our vessel, ready to set sail on an exciting seven-night voyage.
Though Antarctica's harsh conditions left my fingertips frozen daily, setting foot on its pristine, glacial landscapes filled me with an unexpected sense of warmth and wonder. The awe of being immersed in such a stunning setting made every challenge worthwhile.
Each day was a thrilling adventure. We boarded zodiac boats to reach remote bays for morning and afternoon excursions, engaging in various activities from serene kayaking to invigorating hikes. Between these outings, we gained a deeper understanding of the continent's unique ecosystem and marine life through expert-led presentations on various topics, including (of course) penguins. We learned that penguins can take up to 10,000 naps per day, each lasting about 4 seconds.
Throughout the trip, we had close encounters with these adorable creatures. We watched them porpoise through the cerulean waters, gracefully leaping in and out with remarkable agility. On land, we watched them waddle and slide on their bellies up and down the "penguin highways" β well-worn paths carved by penguins walking the same routes between the ocean and their colonies.
When not on an excursion, we made the most of our time aboard the ship. The main lounge was a delightful place to unwind, socialize with fellow travelers, and enjoy incredible views. Although I experienced some queasiness while crossing the infamous Drake Passage, we were fortunate to have traversed the "Drake Lake." Our expedition leader said we were blessed with some of the calmest seas he had ever seen.
We also enjoyed meal options like butter confit lobster tail and a special Thanksgiving dinner featuring turkey, Brussels sprouts, carrots, cranberry sauce, and gravy.
One of the highlights of the trip was when the ship parked on a bed of fast ice at Charlotte Bay. We disembarked and walked directly on the ice, observing a small group of penguins.
Cierva Cove has jaw-dropping scenery befitting a postcard. There, we marveled at the dynamic interplay between the ocean, icebergs, and floating sea ice.
We also kayaked in Chiriguano Bay, a protected inlet on the southern end of Brabant Island in the Palmer Archipelago. Paddling with the backdrop of towering snow-covered mountains was so calming.
Portal Point is a stunning, rocky outcrop northeast of the Reclus Peninsula, with dramatic mountain ranges and glacial tongues. It's one of those places you have to see to believe.
And finally, Deception Island's volcanic terrain starkly contrasted the icy landscapes found elsewhere in Antarctica. The island features warm sands and geothermal waters along its coast.
At the end of the cruise, we embarked on a nonstop flight from Teniente Rodolfo Marsh Martin Airport, located within Chile's Antarctic base on King George Island, to Puerto Natales, Chile. The flight provided a seamless and scenic transition from the frozen wilderness back to the verdant landscapes of the South American mainland.
Our trip to Antarctica was undoubtedly our most unforgettable trip to date. The rare privilege of navigating this phenomenal landscape, leaving footprints where few ever will, was a challenging physical journey and a profoundly emotional one, too. It left us with an enduring connection to a world that is both formidable and incomparable in its beauty β a place that will forever occupy a special space in our hearts.
Quark Expeditions helicopter pilot Jonathan Mutch is working his third season in Antarctica, flying high-paying tourists to some of the planet's remotest places.
Mutch told Business Insider that flying helicopters across the seventh continent is no easy feat.
It takes a team of pilots, flight engineers, mountain guides, and expedition leaders to run the operation safely. Quark says it has strict environmental parameters to avoid affecting wildlife.
"It's a lot more complicated than it looks," Mutch said. "We'll start with a study of our maps and charts and previous experience with the weather, and we'll brief over the preceding days."
He said that because Antarctic weather can be harsh and unpredictable, guests must have realistic and flexible expectations.
Helicopter flightseeing excursions are included in all Antarctic itineraries on the Ultramarine, the luxury vessel where Quark guests live during their voyage and where the helicopters take off and land.
Mutch said Quark prioritizes getting everybody a 15-minute flightseeing trip, followed by potential landings.
Pricing for the 2025-2026 season starts at about $14,000 per person and includes flightseeing, meals, housing, and other activities. Helicopter landings are $530 extra.
Deep-pocketed tourists can also pay $26,000 or more per person for a more helicopter-focused tour that includes landing near an Emperor penguin colony.
Mutch said Quark has two Airbus-made H145 helicopters, which are fitted with safety technology to operate in the polar south, such as a redundant two engines and advanced autopilot.
The helicopters are stored and maintained in hangars on top of the ship. Here, guests board and disembark, the aircraft are refueled between trips, and the crew plans flights.
Mutch said both helicopters are needed to prep the landing sites before taking passengers. Pilots and engineers ensure things like lighting and recirculating snow won't impact safety or vision.
Veteran expedition leader Jake Morrison told BI that a flightseeing operation requires at least 13 employees, or 20 or more for ice landings.
Experienced mountain guides test the landing ice thickness and ensure the sites are safe for walking and void of crevasses.
"We won't get airborne if the experience is going to be lackluster or if there's any risk of leaving anybody out there," Mutch said. He added that Quark operates to the same standards as airlines, and the ships' crew will always follow the helicopter's location.
Mutch said Quark pilots are trained beyond minimum standards, including twice a year in a flight simulator, and have a background in complicated flying.
"We'll put the aircraft into white-out conditions and test the pilots' decision-making," Mutch said, speaking about the simulator training. "We want guys who are not going to be too proud [that causes them] to push on and make mistakes."
Antarctic conservation is a hot topic as a record-breaking number of tourists visit the continent. Ice levels are decreasing, and wildlife is at risk for pollutants from ships, aircraft, and humans.
The International Association of Antarctica Tour Operators tries to curb environmental risks by limiting the number of people on the continent at once, governing what tourists can and cannot bring on the ice, and more.
Flying carbon-emitting helicopters across Antarctica will impact the environment, but Quark said it does what it can to minimize its footprint.
Morisson said the H145 helicopters are more fuel-efficient and quieter than similar aircraft in its category.
Mutch said flightseeing tours are intended to show the landscape, so pilots will not fly within a mile of wildlife. The flight-following crew on the ship helps maintain distance.
For Emperor penguin landings, he said there is typically an iceberg between the birds and humans β so Quark guests are "virtually inaudible and invisible."
"The last thing we want to do is change the behavior of any wildlife or interact in any way with the wildlife down here, whether it be penguins, seals, sea birds, or whales," Mutch said. "We explain this to passengers when we board."
Weather will determine if a flight can safely operate, so there are some days when a tour is scheduled but cannot fly β meaning guests must prepare for uncertainty and possible disappointment.
It's easy to get frustrated considering the high cost of the tour, but that's the reality of flying in the polar south.
"We're quite conservative about when we fly, but we'd ideally want a blue-sky day," he said, adding the company completes an average of 200 flights per season. "We'd like to fly three or perhaps four times per trip, but it's really what the weather will allow us."
Most people do get the chance to fly over Antarctica, thanks to the long itineraries and various options of places to fly.
The single-pilot flightseeing tours carry up to six passengers, with everyone getting a window seat. To optimize capacity, landings will carry up to nine, as prime seating is unnecessary.
"There's Fournier Bay on Anvers Island, an amphitheater of steep ice cliffs β¦ and if we can get above the ridge, you can see up to 100 miles of the Antarctic Peninsula on a clear day," Mutch said, speaking about his favorite sites. "It's not unusual to have guests welling up, overwhelmed with emotion."
Some luxury cruise passengers have gone on hunger strike after their trip to Antarctica was canceled.
Swan Hellenic's 21-day cruise had to change course after a problem with one of the engines on the SH Diana, CEO Andrea Zito said in a Friday statement shared with Business Insider.
The Times of London reported that many passengers paid between Β£7,000 and Β£10,000 ($12,689) for the trip from Cape Town to Ushuaia, in southern Argentina.
The SH Diana is 409 feet long and has nine decks with space for 192 guests. Amenities include an outdoor pool, a spa, a library, and an expedition lab. On arrival, each cabin comes with a bottle of Champagne.
Zito said the SH Diana was supposed to stop in Antarctica for three and a half days, but the captain decided this was unsafe given the engine issue.
Instead, the ship is set to dock in Ushuaia on Saturday, leaving many passengers feeling upset after missing out on a key part of the trip.
"To go to Antarctica is a trip of a lifetime and this specific sailing made it achievable for many on board to do so as it's a repositioning sailing that had attractive deals," one passenger told The Times.
Swan Hellenic offered passengers a 50% cash refund, which Zito said was above the legal requirement of 30%. Alternatively, passengers could take a 65% "future cruise credit."
However, some people on board weren't pleased with the offer.
"A select few chose to stage a hunger strike in their protest," Zito said. He added that it was "rather counterproductive."
"We are working towards a swift end to this action."
The Times obtained pictures of some of these passengers with signs calling for a 100% cash refund.
"Swan Hellenic would like to reiterate that we deeply regret that we had to change the itinerary due to the technical problems with the propeller drive and we understand the disappointment of our guests who were looking forward to a taste of Antarctic experience," Zito said in the statement.
"We feel we have offered a very generous compensation package, beyond what is legally required," he added.
"Swan Hellenic always strive to go above and beyond our guest expectations and look forward to welcoming all our guests back on board future expeditions."