• Koyaana Redstar, a luxury bag authenticator, has decades of experience identifying fake Hermès Birkins.
• She says people should think twice before buying bags from Chinese TikTokers touting luxury items.
• Instead, she recommends buying secondhand bags, which will retain their resale value.

This as-told-to essay is based on a conversation with Koyaana Redstar, the head of luxury buying at Luxe Du Jour, an online luxury boutique for vintage designer handbags. It has been edited for length and clarity.

I've worked for Rebag, The RealReal, and other vintage consignment stores and have 20 years of experience in the resale industry.

With tariffs a big concern now, my TikTok page is flooded with videos from Chinese manufacturers saying they produce luxury handbags for brands like Hermès and Louis Vuitton, urging US customers to buy directly from them.

And they're not just promoting them as dupes. Dupe culture involves finding a less expensive version of a highly desirable item, like the Walmart Birkin. Dupes are not specifically designed to replicate the luxury items.

Here's why I think people should think twice before buying from these TikTokers.

Hermès? Think again.

It's common knowledge that some brands make their products in China — no one's surprised by that.

But some Chinese TikTokers have gone further and claimed they make the high-end goods that luxury brands just slap their labels onto.

But that's not true. Hermès, for one, has clapped back at these claims.

Hermès has invested a lot of money in ateliers in France and other parts of Europe. The brand's items are also handmade by trained craftspeople.

Some people scroll on TikTok and Instagram and think that if something's been put online, it must be real. Don't believe everything you see on TikTok.

Don't expect comparable quality

If I look at these Chinese versions of these bags — and that's where my job expertise comes in — I can tell the Chinese TikTokers' versions are fake at a glance.

The handles are the wrong shape, and the proportions are off. The handles of fake bags are often a dead giveaway. They're either too tall or too round.

Some of the bags in the videos are way too wide at the bottom, and some are too narrow.

I saw a video where a girl was holding up what she said was a mini Kelly, saying she got it directly from the brand's manufacturer.

But it was fake. It didn't even have the right handle—a flat handle instead of a regular rolled handle, which immediately raised a major red flag. It also had a leather grain that I've never seen on a Hermès bag in my entire life.

Why not buy resale?

When you buy a resale or a new authentic item, you have the option to sell it. You don't have that opportunity with a fake.

I advise that if you're looking for a luxury handbag at a marked-down price, buy the bag secondhand instead of from people who claim to be the brand's Chinese manufacturer.

Cost may be an issue for some buyers. If luxury stores hike prices because of the tariffs, you may be looking at a bag that's out of your budget.

But you can also buy bags on resale platforms. People can usually find popular bags in excellent condition or even brand new, and prices will still be below retail.

Think about why you're buying a fake bag

If you're still dead set on buying a bag you see on TikTok from someone who says they're a luxury brand's Chinese manufacturer, I urge you to ask yourself why you want the item.

I won't look down on someone who decides, "I can't afford a $10,000 bag, but I like the shape and think it would fit my lifestyle."

If you like it, and you buy an inexpensive dupe because you can't afford $10,000, more power to you. You made that decision because that was best for you.

Don't buy a fake bag that's being passed off as a Hermès Birkin, label and all, just because of TikTok. And please don't go around with a counterfeit Birkin saying, "Look at my Hermès bag," when it's not, in fact, Hermès.

Various suppliers are claiming on TikTok that they are the original manufacturers of designer bags from Hermes and Louis Vuitton. They are urging users to buy the branded products directly from China to avoid Trump's tariffs.

• Hermès said on an analyst call on Thursday that it will raise prices in the US.
• The price hikes are because of Trump's tariffs, which the brand said haven't yet affected them.
• The Birkin bag, a staple for Hermès, already retails for more than $10,000.

Luxury retailer Hermès announced on Thursday that it's raising prices in the US to offset the effect of President Donald Trump's tariffs.

Eric du Halgouët, executive vice president of finance at the company, told analysts on call that Hermès hadn't yet been impacted by the tariffs, but it was going to raise US prices in May to brace for how the taxes could impact growth.

"The price increase that we're going to implement will be just for the US. Since it's aimed at offsetting the increase in tariffs, that only applies to the American market," du Halgouët said on the call.

du Halgouët said the company has plans to hire an additional 1,000 to 1,500 people, but it will remain cautious about the impact of "geopolitical changes" on financial markets. He also said Hermès raised prices across the US and Europe by 6% at the beginning of 2025.

Hermès caters to the uber-wealthy — even the cheapest versions of its trademark Birkin bags currently cost more than $10,000. It has maintained strong growth amid a challenging environment for the luxury sector, and recently surpassed rival LVMH as the most valuable luxury company.

The French company reported a slow down in first-quarter sales — it grew by 7.2% compared to 18% in the prior quarter. It reported first quarter revenue of €4.1 billion and growth in all geographical areas, according to a press release.

Hermès got caught up in a TikTok fueled controversy earlier this month, when a user posted a now-deleted video claiming that 80% of luxury bags are made in China.

The company doesn't manufacture bags in China and most of its production takes place in France, according to its website. Since Trump issued a 90-day pause on reciprocal tariffs, France is facing a blanket 10% tax.

Representatives for Hermès did not respond to Business Insider's request for comment.

• Hermès CEO Axel Dumas discussed the viral Walmart Birkin bag lookalikes.
• Dumas said he was "annoyed" when asked about Birkin dupes.
• Hermès' Birkin bags are luxury status symbols, starting at $10,000.

Hermès CEO Axel Dumas responded to the viral Walmart "Birkin" bags that were a hit with TikTok's dupe enthusiasts last year — and he was kind of mad.

The French luxury brand reported its annual results from 2024 on Friday. During the call, Dumas said he'd give a "corporate answer" to questions about the lookalikes that were sold on Walmart's website through third parties with about $80 price tags.

At first, he said the company had no comment, but then he expanded on his feelings about fakes.

"It's difficult to know what, exactly, to think about it apart from the fact that it irritated me — annoyed me," he said.

The "Wirkins" aren't technically a counterfeit since the sellers aren't marketing them as the real thing, but Dumas said that Hermès takes counterfeiting "very seriously."

It's unclear when vendors began selling the cheaper bags on Walmart's e-commerce site, but a string of viral videos in December pushed them into the spotlight — causing many to flock to purchase one. TikTokers dubbed them "Wirkins" or "Walmès bags."

"Making a copy like this is quite detestable —it's stealing the creative ideas of others," Dumas said.

However, Dumas said he ended up seeing Wirkins as a compliment in a way. Hermès Birkin bags are highly coveted status symbols among the wealthy, with five-figure price tags and long waitlists. The handmade leather bags start at around $10,000.

He said he understood that no one is buying the $80 Wirkin and expecting it to be the real thing, and it was "quite touching" to see people who dreamed of owning a Birkin.

The bags started disappearing from Walmart's marketplace in January following the frenzy they started online. The company previously declined to comment on why they were being taken off of shelves.

• Viral imitations of Hermès' Birkin bag have boosted awareness of Walmart's e-commerce marketplace.
• The positive attention is a tailwind as Walmart aims to take on Amazon's online dominance.
• Dupes like the so-called "Wirkin" can also pose a challenge for the retailer's brand relationships.

For all of the fanfare they received last month, the internet-famous dupes of the ultra-luxe Birkin handbags have been disappearing from Walmart's e-commerce marketplace.

Walmart itself has been fairly quiet about the trend.

"In some instances, products may no longer be available," a Walmart spokesperson told Business Insider, declining to comment on the items specifically. The spokesperson added that the company encourages shoppers to explore its website for "exciting alternatives."

The frenzy around these imitation luxury accessories, available for a fraction of the price of the designer versions, highlights how such an increase in attention can be a somewhat mixed bag for online platforms like Walmart. An imitation bag going viral on TikTok can bring publicity to an online marketplace while also posing legal and reputational risks for brand owners.

"The Birkin dupes on Walmart's site have attracted such attention because of the juxtaposition of a very price-focused brand and a very aspirational product," GlobalData retail analyst Neil Saunders told BI. "It underlines how much its marketplace has evolved over recent years. Walmart has been actively expanding the offer to attract more consumers, especially younger and more affluent ones."

Walmart executives have touted the massive assortment of products available via third-party sellers in its online marketplace, which launched in 2009. Last quarter, CEO Doug McMillon said the SKU count is approaching 700 million items — a figure that dwarfs the 120,000 SKUs typically carried in a Walmart Supercenter.

McMillon has spoken at length about how important a huge selection of products is for Walmart to become the first place shoppers think of when they need anything from a dozen eggs sold by Walmart to a pair of sneakers from a third-party seller.

"When somebody thinks about buying anything and they want to go search or they want to go find a specific item, we want to be in that consideration set and that requires 1P and 3P," he said in a September 2023 earnings call, referring to first-party and third-party goods.

Amazon largely achieved this place in American consumers' minds by offering more than 600 million products on its site, of which 588 million are sold by third-party vendors, according to Capital One.

But what happens when sellers offer — and shoppers want — products that might infringe on another company's intellectual property rights?

Neither Walmart nor Hermès have said publicly whether an official complaint was filed, but McMillon has often said the company prizes its brand partnerships and wants to keep suppliers happy.

A Walmart employee who works in the Marketplace division told BI the company takes a cautious approach with potentially risky listings.

"We sure block a lot of stuff I could just get on Amazon," he said.

While many of the listings for the imitation Birkin bags are no longer available on Walmart's website, similar bags were available on Amazon as of Wednesday morning.

One third-party seller on Amazon was offering a $100 "Wirkin welmes" leather handbag, using keywords that were popularized in reference to the delisted dupes on Walmart.com. The listing was taken down after BI contacted Amazon for comment.

Amazon told BI it automatically scans every product listing for potential IP infringement, and said there is a difference between IP-infringing products and products that otherwise resemble brand-name products. The company also said several bags have been removed for violating marketplace policies, including the listing mentioned above.

Balancing new customer awareness with protecting brands could help explain Walmart's relatively low-key handling of the Wirkin trend publicly. However, this likely won't be the last time the company will have to thread this needle.

The Walmart employee said the Marketplace team regularly writes new rules to address new situations, and that AI image recognition is increasingly being trained to flag listings for review by human staffers.

Opening the marketplace to an ever-larger number of sellers means there will be no shortage of listings that will go on to be deleted. Those future listings will likely come and go with less attention as more people realize Walmart's offering goes well beyond its physical stores.

If anything, the kerfuffle over the Wirkin shows that Walmart's marketplace ambitions have reached a key milestone, attracting a level of viral attention in league with existing titans like Amazon and eBay.